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I set the camera up once, and that’s usually it. I don’t want to have to think about what switch to hit or where such-and-such is buried in the menus.
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But I have a problem with that I like to stick to one camera at a time and let it become a part of me. One for your scenic work and another for street work. If you’re (like me) a generalist, you could have two cameras. If all of you were interested in shooting was street stuff, then I’d have to give the rangefinder a strong edge. Photo by John Ragai ISO 200, f/4.0, 1/200-second exposure. Though the Canons also have an interesting Depth of Field setting that will attempt to emulate hyper focus, I haven’t used that much. I don’t want the camera to make the decision as to what is going to be in focus. You can also just work with the built in focus.
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On the Canon line of digital cameras (both digital and film) you can move focus lock to a button on the back of the camera and keep your thumb on it to lock focus or even flip off the auto-focus once you know the general area you are aiming for.
#Photo focus photography how to#
With an auto focus camera, you need to know how to lock focus.
#Photo focus photography manual#
With a manual camera, once you’ve pre-focused the lens, just leave it as is, and point it at your subject and take the shot. You have decided what your shot is going to be and find an object that is at an equivalent distance to focus on. Pre-focusing, whether with a manual focus camera or an auto focus camera involves anticipation. In fact, I brought neutral density filters with me (since I usually shot a fast film) so that I could shoot at a wider, more-open f-stop if I wanted to. In other words, even when I was shooting with a Leica M, I would tend to pre-focus and use a lower f-stop. I like to have the foreground and/or background out-of-focus. Modern SLR lenses don’t usually show the hyper focal distance (because they’re auto-focus). There just isn’t enough depth of field (DOF). Obviously, you need to be able to judge distances, and it will not be possible if you are shooting “wide open” at say f/1.4.
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After that you can walk around and know that if your subject is within your hyper focal distance you’ll be fine. It’s not what I’d call exact focus, but it’s close enough so that focus will seem fine. Since most street photography is done between 7 and 15 feet you can easily set the lens so that everything that falls within this distance will be in focus for a given f-stop. Look at the lens and see foot and meter distance measurements for a given F-stop. If you are using a Leica or Contax manual focus rangefinder, you’ll find the lenses marked and easy to read the hyper focal distance. Hyperfocal distance is a popular technique used mostly with rangefinder cameras. Photo by Ivan Tsaregorodtsev ISO 1250, f/9, 1/1000s, 16mm.
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